Last week I wrote my staff pick from Stockholm, and today’s comes from Athens, Greece. When I conceived this trip back in January I decided I would take a side trip on my own between my friend’s wedding and K-town, but I ended up waiting until the very last minute to plan this side trip. (Honestly, I was in such a bad place mental health-wise that I wasn’t sure if I was going to go on this trip at all.) I looked at a few different cities, but after searching for accommodation in Athens and realizing how much cheaper it would be to go here than any of the other cities I was looking at, I pulled the trigger. I’d never been to Athens and always wanted to go, and now seemed like the perfect time. It turned out to be a great choice.
Arriving in Athens directly from Stockholm, though, was a big culture shock. This wasn’t helped by my physical state when I landed. My flight left Stockholm at 6AM, which meant I needed to be at the airport by 4AM, which meant I needed to leave central Stockholm by 3:30AM. The day before leaving I still hadn’t really recovered from jet lag or adjusted to the crazy long days in Sweden, so my sleep schedule was all flipped around. I decided to take a short nap in the evening then stay up until it was time to leave at 3:30. I might have slept a few minutes on the plane, but when I touched down in Athens I definitely had that insane, I’ve-been-up-all-night feeling. I made my way from the airport to the train station without any problems, but I had a little freakout when I was trying to figure out which train to get on and the signs were only written in Greek script. I can’t remember if I was looking at Google Maps or something else, but all the names I had were in Roman script and bore little resemblance to what was on the signs. I figured it out eventually… not that it was hard, since there’s only one train from the airport and it goes directly to where I needed to go.
It really hit home how far I traveled when I popped out of the metro station at Monastiraki, which is the neighborhood where I’m staying. In Stockholm the weather was cool and damp and everything is clean, new, and precisely ordered and managed. Athens felt chaotic by comparison. The sun blasted me like a laser beam, the air was hot and dry, the cobblestone sidewalks and streets were full of missing bricks, there’s graffiti everywhere, all the signs are in that incomprehensible Greek script, and the streets were crowded with people, their boisterous chatting and occasional yelling a marked contrast to Sweden, where nearly every person seemed to be wearing airpods and walking determinedly in a single direction. This new environment was overwhelming, but not unwelcoming, and after making it to my room (where they kindly let me check in four hours early) and taking a short nap, I was ready to hit the town.
I typed “vegan” into google maps, decided on a place, and started walking. On my way to the restaurant, I turned a corner and unexpectedly caught my first view of the Acropolis, which hit me kind of hard. Even though I was famished, I had to stop for a minute, sit on a ledge, and just look at it. I’d see much better views of the Acropolis in the coming days, but in that moment it really struck me that I was looking at something two and a half thousand years old. After sitting with that feeling for a minute, I followed the directions to the restaurant and ate a vegan mushroom gyro that blew my mind. Even better, it only cost 5 euros and 90 cents. By the time I leave here, my body is going to be made of like 80% vegan gyro and souvlaki molecules.
I wrote in last week’s staff pick about how I like seeing major historical sights, and that’s mostly what I’ve done in Athens, alongside checking out record stores, eating, and trying to keep up with Sorry State work from my laptop. (I’m seven hours ahead of Raleigh time, and I’ve been spending most evenings working so I’ll have a little bit of overlap with the crew’s working hours back home.) As you might expect, the historical stuff is pretty mind-blowing. Early in my stay I took a day trip to Delphi and visited the Temple of Apollo there, which housed the Oracle of Delphi. The Oracle of Delphi sounds like something from mythology, but it was a real thing, and for hundreds of years, throngs of people queued up there in the hopes of gaining some type of insight from the priestess who was said to communicate directly with Apollo. Another big one was seeing the Theatre of Dionysus on the southern slope of the Acropolis. While I’m a firm believer in the adage “there’s no first anything,” it was pretty amazing to see what might reasonably be called the world’s oldest theater, where the idea of theater itself was born (not a certain strain or genre or school of theater, but theater full stop). Yet another highlight was just this morning, when I visited the Benaki Museum of Greek Culture. The museum is packed with cool stuff, but my favorite was their collection of neolithic artifacts, which included pottery shards and flint tools from the early neolithic period, as far back as 6,500 B.C.E. At nearly ten thousand years old, one guidebook I read called these items the earliest human-made artifacts one is ever likely to see in their lifetime.
Looking at all this very old stuff, I’m struck both by how close and how far that history seems from here and now. On one hand I’m so physically close to these things that date back thousands of years, but on the other hand most of those artifacts really show their age. That’s particularly apparent at the Acropolis, where the site, the buildings, and the sculptures and artifacts that once populated it have all been ravaged by time, the weather, war, changes in culture, and everything else that has happened in the intervening two thousand-odd years. These are ruins, after all, and they’re pretty ruined. It’s kind of frustrating to go through the Acropolis museum, which collects all the artifacts from the Acropolis site (except, of course, for the very important ones that are controversially still on display at the British Museum), and look at what amounts to rubble. Yet I’m glad whoever manages these historical sites has largely resisted the temptation to build over them a Disneyland-like approximation of what we think things used to be like. I’m sure that’s a huge temptation, as the handful of artifacts that are super well-preserved are pretty amazing. In particular, I’m thinking of this life-size bronze sculpture of a charioteer in the museum at Delphi. Very few large bronze pieces survive from the classical period because they were almost all melted down and recycled (depressingly, I bet a lot of them ended up as weapons), but this sculpture (though missing an arm), is almost completely intact, right down to the eyelashes. That sculpture is so lifelike as to be uncanny, and, looking into its face, the two and a half thousand year gap felt bridged for just a moment.
This ain’t “Sorry State Art History,” though, so y’all are probably wondering about the record situation in Athens. As usual, I’ve tried to hit up as many shops as possible while I’m here, and there are a lot of record shops in Athens. As I mentioned last time, money is tight on this trip, and while I’ve left nearly every shop empty-handed, I still enjoy checking them out. Plus, even if you don’t buy anything, searching out record stores usually gets you to the cool, interesting parts of a city.
There are actually several shops in the touristy area of central Athens, though. Some of them are so niche that I wonder how they survive in what must be a very high-rent district. The most extreme example is a shop called Birdman Records, which has beautifully designed custom fixtures that look like they must have cost a fortune, but a total inventory of perhaps 300 LPs (which were, to me at least, totally unremarkable). Another notable shop was Record Club, a large basement-level shop with a stage that I imagine would be a pretty cool place to see a show. I was excited about this one because a photo on their Google business page featured one of my most wanted records, Siouxsie and the Banshees’ Twice Upon a Time. The store did have a pretty good inventory with lots of rarities (though leaning more toward 45s from the 60s and 70s), but everything was consistently priced four times what I would expect to pay at a typical shop. I didn’t have much hope of the Siouxsie record still being there since the photo was taken a year ago, but I’m glad I didn’t have to make the decision about whether to pay what was, I’m sure, an eye-watering price.
The most interesting shops close to the city’s center are clustered in a covered shopping arcade near the Monstiraki metro station. Here I found a couple of shops that focused on used LPs. The best of them was called Zaharias Records CD. I asked pretty much every store I visited if they had any 80s Greek punk, and Zaharias was one of the few who could point me toward anything interesting. This shop is also where I bought my staff pick for this week:
Various: Συνταγή Αντί Θανάτου 12” (FM Records, 1986)
I’m pretty sure this is the first time I’ve chosen a record I’ve never actually heard as my staff pick, since I won’t be able to listen to this until I get back home. I’m a novice when it comes to Greek punk, so before I got here I looked up as many discographies and articles about Greek punk records as I could find. I tried to absorb as many band names (which was tough because of my aforementioned unfamiliarity with Greek script) and cover images as I could. While I don’t recall coming across an image of this compilation, I recognized the band Clown’s name from a single they released in 1983. I haven’t heard that Clown single and I’ve never heard of any of the other bands on the compilation, but the cover art and 1986 date both seemed promising, so I pulled the trigger. Maybe I’ll make it my staff pick again after I actually listen to it and let y’all know what the bands sound like.
Most of Athens’ record stores—at least the most interesting ones—are in an area called Exarhia, which proves my point that seeking out record stores brings you to the most interesting parts of town. Vacant, derelict, and graffiti-covered buildings seem to be a staple of most parts of Athens, but when you enter Exarhia there’s a discernible vibe shift. Everything is way grungier and graffiti covers virtually every square inch of every building, dumpster, and anything else spray paint will stick to. Much of that graffiti features anarchist political messages and the bars and cafes are all a little seedier and more interesting-looking, making the whole neighborhood feel quite familiar if you’ve spent any time visiting European squats. Despite the numerous wheat-pasted posters telling tourists to fuck off, as a punk I felt like I found my place.
There are a ton of record stores in Exarhia, most of them small specialty shops that focus almost entirely on new releases. There are so many stores that they’re highly specialized: No Remorse, Disques Noir, Metal Era, Eat Metal, and Bowel of Noise are all metal-focused shops, with Eat Metal specializing in traditional heavy metal and power metal, Bowel of Noise focusing on death and black metal, etc. There are two punk shops, with Rhythm Records devoted largely to more ’77-influenced stuff (they were blasting Rancid when I dropped in) and Scarecrow Records catering to the crustier end of the spectrum. All of these shops had world-class selections of new releases and reissues within their given focus, making Athens an extremely well-served city for new vinyl.
Since we carry most of the new releases I’m interested in at Sorry State, when I’m traveling I’m usually after second-hand records. Aside from the shops I’ve already mentioned, Old School Records and Δισκάδικο (Diskadiko) Records both had solid selections and prices, but Art Rat Records was by far the best shop I visited. It’s a small shop with 60s and 70s music (mostly prog and psych) on the left side and new wave and punk on the right side. A quick glance at the wall told me I had found the spot for deep heads: on the new wave/punk side, I noticed a first pressing of the Times’ Pop Goes Art! with a hand-drawn cover, and on the left side I saw an original UK pressing of Pussy Plays. Price tags were on the back of the records, so you had to flip it over to see what they cost. I didn’t even bother flipping over that Pussy record.
I started flipping through the punk/new wave bins and the selection was pretty great, with a good mix of genre staples and more obscure, under-the-radar stuff, mostly from the US and UK, but plenty from western Europe as well. After a few minutes of browsing, all the other customers had left the store, so I decided to pop the question: “got any 80s Greek punk?” The guy said, “yeah, next door,” and he led me outside and unlocked the shop next door, which was an entire second record store packed to the gills with god-knows-what. He pointed at a shelf with about 100 LPs and said, “here’s the Greek stuff.” One of the first LPs I found was the one album I had most hoped to find on this trip. But we’ll have to cover that in a future staff pick…
Wow, I sure covered a lot of ground this week! It’s Wednesday evening as I write this, and I have one more day in Athens before I leave for Copenhagen and this year’s Ktown fest. As usual, there are a ton of sick bands playing, so hopefully in my next staff pick I’ll run down my highlights. Jeff and Usman will also be there, so maybe they’ll write about it too. Until then…